If I may, let us recall the iconic GIF that Broad City gave to the world in its first season. If your memory is fuzzy, I'll set the scene. Fred Armisen, dressed in a diaper, shrugs, lifts his hands, and utters those life-changing words: "I'm just a baby. I don't have any money." A vibe was crystallized, and now, whenever I feel like a baby or don't have any money, my mind goes back to that moment whether I like it or not. Which brings us to retinol. Or rather, a retinol alternative that gets the job done, even if your skin's a baby and you protect it at all costs.
Just to be clear, retinol is one of the most derm-recommended ingredients. It takes care of most of the typical issues people have with their skin—acne, scarring, discoloration, and dullness. However, it can be harsh and irritating, especially if you already have sensitive skin that freaks out from the wrong kind of moisturizer, let alone a chemical that penetrates as deeply as retinol does.
The alternative is called bakuchiol (pronounced "bah-coo-chee-all"). The ingredient has long been a staple in Ayurvedic rituals, but it's now having a moment in Western skin care thanks to researchers who found that it gives all the benefits of retinol without the irritation. That sounds too good to be true, but science backs it up: The botanical-based ingredient stimulates collagen and elasticity, while significantly decreasing lines, wrinkles, pigmentation, and UV damage. Now the ingredient is showing up in products from brands like Biossance, Revision Skincare, Omorovicza, and Ole Henriksen, in the brand's new Retin-ALT Power Serum.
I've been living through one of the worst cystic breakouts I've had in years, so my skin's sensitivity is high (to put it lightly). I've whimpered in the bathroom a few nights while putting on moisturizer—it's that kind of bad, where it hurts to even touch it. On my dermatologist's advice, I've been sticking to prescription topicals and basic moisturizer, which is boring but necessary. Yet my derm gave me the OK to work in a gently exfoliating acid after a few weeks of not bothering my acneic mountain range, and with the Retin-ALT Serum's combination of anti-inflammatory bakuchiol and alpha hydroxy acid, I was ready for a test drive.
The serum is a pretty purple color, smells faintly sugary, and disappeared into my skin within about five seconds. No complaints there, and while my cysts stung a bit as I massaged it in, after using it for a couple of weeks, I'm impressed. There's not a ton of difference in my hormonal acne (it's not a miracle worker), but my skin hasn't revolted as if I'd cut out retinol. I use the serum in tandem with the line's night cream, and consistently wake up to skin so bright and glowy, it's enough to distract my attention if I do have jaw breakouts. And when my skin's being a huge jerk, that's all I can ask for.
Ole Henriksen Glow Cycle Retin-ALT Power Serum, $58, sephora.com
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