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We love to test out the latest eye shadow trends, but not every tutorial will result in the same final look on every eye shape. Eye shadow for hooded eyes, for example, can come with some unique considerations.
The term hooded eyes refers to a very common eye shape in which a fold of skin or soft tissue below the brow bone mostly or completely covers the upper eyelid when the eyes are open. Because of this, eye shadow applied directly to the eyelid may seem to disappear, and pigmented looks that extend beyond the crease into the brow bone can appear fragmented.
“I have hooded eyes, and eye shadow—and really making it show up on the lid—has always been a challenge,” says professional makeup artist Kirin Bhatty. Product creasing within the eye’s natural fold can also be tricky, says celebrity makeup artist Christian Briceno. But with the right techniques, you can create eye shadow looks that not only work with your lids, but make your eyes—and your whole makeup—pop. From bold swipes of color to soft shimmering glam, our experts share their best tips and favorite products for applying eye shadow to hooded eyes.
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How should you prep your lids for eye shadow?
“A smooth base is everything,” Briceno says. “I always start with an eye primer to control oil and give the eye shadow something to grab onto.” He prefers Urban Decay’s Primer Potion or Nars Smudgeproof Eyeshadow Base, and notes that if the client’s lids are especially oily, he’ll set the primer with a touch of translucent powder before adding shadow. “That little step makes blending easier and keeps everything locked down,” he says.
How should you apply eye shadow to hooded eyes for the best results?
If you want to maximize your eye shadow look on hooded lids, experts recommend investing in a fluffy, tapered brush. “This tool allows you to exaggerate your lid crease without creating any harsh lines, as the brush is very airy and light,” Bhatty says. Briceno recommends using the Mac 217S Blending Brush to pat the product on first, then softly blend out the edges–swiping the product back and forth can muddy the appearance and decrease the product’s integrity on the skin. “With hooded eyes, I’ll cheat the crease by going slightly higher so the color still shows when eyes are open,” he says.
How can you make sure your eye shadow lasts?
Briceno emphasizes that the longevity of shadow on hooded lilds depends on the care you take in applying it: “It’s about layering thin, even amounts of product creams first, then setting them with powders in the same tone so they reinforce each other.” While Bhatty also highlights the importance of skin prep and product application, she also recommends finishing with a mist of an ultrafine setting spray, like the Dior Forever Perfect Fix. “The goal is grip without weight,” Briceno says.
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Which eye shadow looks work best on hooded eyes?
In many cases, Bhatty says, “Creating the illusion of more eyelid space is key.” She starts by applying deeper shadows along the lash line, then blending upward to create a gradient that extends beyond the natural crease. “Neutral to deep gradients always photograph beautifully on hooded eyes,” Briceno says. And according to him, using matte shades in and above the natural lid crease gives instant definition. For everyday eye shadow looks that catch light and crease minimally, Briceno reaches for Mineral Fusion quad eye shadow palettes in shades Soiree and Coffee Break.
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For softer, more ethereal glam, a hint of sparkle also works beautifully with hooded eyes. To maximize these products, Briceno recommends keeping shimmer “only on the movable lid or inner corner of the eye, so it highlights without overwhelming.” When applying any metallic product, Bhatty uses her finger to press on the product to enhance control and limit transfer.
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If bold eye shadow is your thing, you can have a lot of fun experimenting with different shapes on hooded eyes. To exaggerate the eyes, Briceno recommends trying elongated or lifted eye shadow, a soft wing of shadow ,or a smoky lower lash line. Focusing on the lower lid—whether that means defining the waterline with a fine pencil brush or brushing a subtler shade under the lashes—can add drama without relying fully on the upper lid.
No eye shadow look is off-limits for hooded eyes. With these expert-backed products and techniques—and hopefully some inspiration to try something new—your eye shadow game is set to peak just in time for smoky season.
Grace McCarty is the associate beauty editor at Glamour.