What does glycolic acid do? Well, a little bit of everything, which is why we (and so many others) love it so much. The exfoliating acid is a game changer for acne-prone skin. If you’ve found yourself alternating between salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, and retinol only to discover flaking skin, swapping in glycolic acid might just do the trick.
But here’s the best part: Glycolic acid does way more than just treat breakouts. The exfoliator also tackles skin concerns like hyperpigmentation and dullness and signs of aging like fine lines and wrinkles, all in one fell swoop. Trust us, your skin tone and skin texture will be transformed after incorporating this anti-aging powerhouse into your skin-care routine.
Ahead, everything you need to know about how to use glycolic acid, how often to use it, what to avoid, and more.
The best glycolic acid products, at a glance
- Best for Body: The Inkey List Glycolic Acid Exfoliating Body Stick, $18
- Best Face Wash: Dermalogica Daily Glycolic Cleanser, $39
- Best Peel Pads: First Aid Beauty Facial Radiance Pads, $20
- Best for Acne: L'Oréal Paris Revitalift 10% Pure Glycolic Acid Serum, $36
- Best Toner: Pixi Glow Tonic, $29
What is glycolic acid?
Glycolic acid is a type of alpha-hydroxy acid (or AHA) derived from sugarcane. It joins other acids you might recognize, such as lactic acid (derived from milk), tartaric acid (from grapes), and citric acid—which, you might guess, comes from citrus fruits.
So what makes glycolic acid different from the others? “Of the AHAs, glycolic is the simplest in structure and the smallest; it has the lowest molecular weight,” says Kenneth Howe, MD, a dermatologist at UnionDerm in New York City. That small molecular weight means “it’s easy for it to penetrate your skin and be super effective,” says Alix Shapiro, skin therapist at Heyday in NYC.
What does glycolic acid do for your face?
When it comes to the benefits of glycolic acid, the list is long. First and foremost, glycolic acid is a chemical exfoliant. It helps shed dead skin cells and reveal the newer, brighter layers underneath by acting on the stratum corneum (the outermost or top layer of skin). “Normal, intact stratum corneum consists of tightly packed layers of dead skin cells that are tightly bonded together,” says Dr. Howe. “Glycolic acid loosens these bonds.” With their glue dissolved by glycolic acid, those tough, rough layers of dead skin cells can be sloughed away more easily.
But because glycolic acid is so small, it can get deeper into your skin too, where it does some serious work, especially for skin elasticity. “Glycolic acid stimulates fibroblasts in the dermis to produce increased amounts of collagen,” says Dr. Howe. And by stimulating collagen production, it helps skin feel firmer and minimizes fine lines and wrinkles. Between the superficial action on your stratum corneum and the work it does below, “your skin will feel smoother and look more radiant and even-toned,” Shapiro says.
Though it is often used on the face, glycolic acid can also be used on the rest of the body too. If you have clogged pores or dark spots from blemishes on your back, arms, or anywhere else, you can incorporate the acid into your body-care routine as well.
How do you use glycolic acid in your skin-care routine?
As with any exfoliant, it’s best to start small if you have sensitive skin or are prone to irritation. Shapiro recommends using it in a face wash, since it can be rinsed off. “A glycolic cleanser can get your skin used to it, rather than diving straight into a leave-on glycolic product if you are unsure whether your skin can tolerate it,” she says. Try formulations that pair glycolic with hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid or squalane if you’re worried about dry skin.
If you already know your skin is up for glycolic, try it in a peel. “I feel glycolic acid is most effective when administered as a chemical peel done in a health-care practitioner’s office,” says Dr. Howe. “The medical-grade peel pads we use are stronger, with more potent effects, and many people get better results with stronger treatments done intermittently—once a month, say.”
Heading to a dermatology office every month isn’t always in the cards, so this is where milder forms of exfoliation like at-home peel pads come in. Should you use these glycolic acid products every day? No—though you can use them more regularly in your skin-care routine than a professional-grade product, they still are not ideal for daily use. Start slowly with twice a week use, and then you can gradually increase frequency to every other day if you know your skin can tolerate these glycolic acid peels.
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What skin types should use glycolic acid?
“It’s best for normal, combination, and oily skin types,” says Shapiro. But as with anything, glycolic acid is not for everyone. “People with dry, highly sensitive skin often react to it with irritation,” says Dr. Howe. “Any form might irritate them, whether it’s in a topical product, a home-use peeling pad, or an office-based peel procedure.”
There’s also a seasonal factor to consider. In the winter, when your skin’s barrier function might be compromised (and therefore skin appears dry or chapped), this can allow for deeper penetration, which can lead to increased irritation.
As for what acid is best for you, glycolic acid isn’t necessarily better than salicylic acid or another exfoliator. Salicylic acid, for example, is ideal for acne-prone skin but isn’t usually prescribed for those who want major anti-aging benefits. Choosing the right one depends on your own skin conditions and goals.
Heads up: Because exfoliating acids (including AHAs, BHAs, PHAs, and more) remove dead skin cells to reveal new (and therefore more sensitive) skin, using an ingredient like glycolic acid can make your skin more sensitive to sunlight and prone to sun damage. In the summer, that makes glycolic acid even riskier, since it can make you sensitive to sunlight. No matter the time of year, make sure to apply sunscreen (SPF 30 or higher) every day to minimize the chance of sunburn.
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What should you avoid when using glycolic acid?
Besides avoiding the sun, are there any skin-care ingredients to steer clear of when using glycolic acid? You may be wondering if you can mix it with other skin-care ingredients like hyaluronic acid and retinol, and the short answer is that it depends.
While glycolic acid can be beneficial in conjunction with other, gentler acids like salicylic, combining it with more hard-core exfoliating ingredients is best avoided. That means any manual exfoliant (like a face scrub), benzoyl peroxide, and—depending on how well your skin can stand up to harsh products—retinol.
For example, if it took your skin weeks to acclimate to retinol burn, then adding glycolic acid on top of it is likely too much for you. And even if you do think your skin is tough, combining glycolic acid with retinol can still be problematic. “Retinol products speed up cell turnover in your skin, resulting in a functional exfoliating effect,” says Dr. Howe. “This thinning of the outer layer of your skin increases the penetration of glycolic acid, and with that the likelihood of irritation.”
One easy way to avoid a DIY disaster is to look for glycolic acid toners and serums that are formulated with a low concentration of other gentler exfoliants and stick to serums and moisturizers with hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid for the rest of your routine.
Is glycolic acid good for treating acne?
Yes, glycolic acid works well for acne-prone skin, says Loretta Ciraldo, MD, board-certified dermatologist and founder of Dr. Loretta Skincare. “It works by ungluing dead skin cells from each other, which clears out your pores.” She adds that it’s great for not only treating but also preventing most types of acne like blackheads, whiteheads, and pimples, since the root cause is a buildup of oil.
However, approach with caution if you have dry skin, sensitivity, or cystic acne. “If you have a mild to moderate case of acne, you can use it and simply avoid it over areas that are already sensitive,” says Ciraldo. “But if you have rosacea or painful cystic acne, the acid may be too harsh. In these cases it’s important to consult with a dermatologist or an experienced aesthetician.”
If you have moderate to advanced acne or are looking to lighten hyperpigmentation and acne scars, Dr. Ciraldo recommends choosing a product with 10% glycolic acid. If you’re sensitive or have more mild acne, go with a lower percentage.
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What are the side effects of glycolic acid?
Since it’s a powerful acid, you run the risk of skin irritation or burns. “But not what happened to Samantha in Sex and the City,” says Dr. Howe. “I have never seen a reaction that severe, not from glycolic acid.” Overall it’s actually very safe, so much so that a derm can do a glycolic acid peel to treat acne during pregnancy. (Of course, you should consult your health-care provider to confirm before using the exfoliator).
Another advantage? It has a built-in safeguard. “Glycolic acid is immediately neutralized upon contact with water,” Dr. Howe says. Not only can you rinse it off if you feel tingling, but even if it penetrates deeply into your skin, it eventually reaches the water in the dermis. There, it’s neutralized and won’t go any further.
