When it comes to how to apply tanning lotion, there have been big improvements made over the years. You rarely see people so orange they look like sweet potato/human hybrids. Still, it's not like getting a faux glow is foolproof, even to the most experienced self-tan fans out there. If the look you're going for is more sun-kissed goddess than Flamin' Hot Cheeto, there may be a few crucial mistakes you're making.
Ahead, we had three tanning experts and a dermatologist break down to how to apply tanning lotion correctly for perfectly bronzed skin.
Step 1: Choose your tanning lotion shade
If you're naturally fair, it seems like it would make sense to opt for a light shade to avoid going to the way-too-dark side. But playing it safe could mean that your self-tanning efforts barely register, since shades are labeled according to intensity, not your existing skin tone. “Choose your self tan shade based on the result you want, not your skin tone,” says Hogg. “If you want to deepen your skin tone a little, choose medium. If you want a deeper result, choose dark.”
.png)
Step 2: Exfoliate your skin
If it’s not your first time at the self-tanning rodeo, you probably already know that exfoliating in advance is the No. 1 rule for an even, natural-looking tan. The main purpose is to eliminate dead skin cells and create a smooth surface for the tanning formula to penetrate. But it's equally important for getting rid of your old self-tanner.
“To achieve a seamless tan, prepping your skin is key,” says Dendy Engelman, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in NYC. “Start by thoroughly exfoliating your skin 24 hours before your tanning session to close your pores and remove dead skin. I recommend using a dry brush or an exfoliating glove with a body wash.”
“Without exfoliating those dead, tanned skin cells, they’ll eventually shed unevenly, leaving you looking patchy or even speckled like a leopard,” says celebrity spray tan pro Kristyn Pradas. You can even help the process along by taking a hot bath right before you exfoliate, too.
.png)
.png)
.png)
Like pretty much everything else in the world, it all comes down to timing. “If you want the very best result, exfoliating at least eight hours before allows skin's pH balance to neutralize, which is the ideal condition for the color to develop," says Sophie Evans, celebrity spray tan expert and brand ambassador to St. Tropez Tan.
A quick beauty riddle: Why in the world is your tan so screwed up even though you did everything right? You might want to check your scrub. “If you exfoliate with oil-based scrub, the oil can create a barrier between skin and self-tanner,” says Pradas. “You’ll be left with weird marks and both dark and light spots.” Try a scrub formulated for self-tanning prep, like Vita Liberata Super Fine Skin Polish.
Step 3: Apply your tanning lotion
If you’re a self-tanning newbie—or coming back to it after a long hiatus—you probably think it’s a good idea to start slow. But skimping on the self-tanner can actually result in streaks and stripes. “When people are scared of a self-tan, they use a very small amount of product to tan a large area,” explains Evans. “The lack of product and over-rubbing causes streaks.”
Instead, use a tan applicator like the St. Tropez Tan Applicator Mitt. You can load up product and then use it to sweep off any excess. Don’t worry: “You can never use too much self-tanner, as the skin can only absorb a certain amount of the tanning chemical,” says Evans.
.png)
.png)
The telltale giveaway of a fake tan? A suspiciously dark elbow. Certain areas of the body absorb self-tanner more quickly and require a little extra work. “Get ahead of the game and wipe your knuckles, knees, elbows and ankles immediately after tanning—even if you think you don't need to," says Alyson Hogg, founder of Vita Liberata Luxury Tan. Alternately, Evans suggests using a moisturizer before tanning to create a barrier on those areas of the body so less self-tanner can penetrate.
Step 4: Let your tan develop
Your new tan needs six to eight hours to develop. So until then, consider yourself under house arrest. Hot weather and heavy sweating can cause self-tanner to drip—and dry that way. “Even putting on shoes will remove any self-tanner that the inner part of the shoe touches,” says Pradas. So, working out is out of the question too, as is going for swim. Instead, pop open a bottle of wine, slip on a pair of sweatpants, and queue up Netflix.