Whether you want to get rid of your peach fuzz or your chemical exfoliants aren’t cutting it, learning how to dermaplane at home can help you get smoother and more even-toned skin. The facial exfoliation technique removes both hair and dead skin from the surface of the face, making your skin care products absorb more effectively and your makeup apply more smoothly. But before you start to DIY, there are some important things to know.
For starters, the sensitive skin on your face is way more delicate than other areas you might shave—that’s why it’s best to think of dermaplaning as a precise skin care practice. With the right prep and technique, you can reap all the benefits of this once clinic-exclusive dermatology practice at home.
Ready for the glass skin of your dreams? Here’s everything you need to know about how to dermaplane at home like a pro, sans irritation or nicks.
What is dermaplaning?
Originally an in-office procedure, dermaplaning has now been adapted to be safe for at-home use. Dermatologists will typically use a surgical scalpel, applied with steady pressure, to remove layers of dead skin cells and peach fuzz for the ultimate exfoliation treatment. At home you’ll use a dermaplane razor instead, which is duller and safer.
“Dermaplaning is a form of exfoliation that removes dead skin and the peach fuzz from your skin, leaving it soft and smooth,” says Katie Mann, DNP, owner of Curated Medical Spa in Scottsdale, Arizona. “Sometimes dead skin sitting on the surface can make your skin appear dry or flaky when really it just needs to be exfoliated.”
Dermaplaning, simply put, is “exfoliating at its best,” says dermatologist Mona Gohara, MD, a clinical professor of dermatology at Yale College of Medicine. She suggests it for anyone who wants to reduce the look of fine lines and pores, get a more even skin tone, and create the perfect primed canvas for makeup.
Can you dermaplane at home?
Yes, you can dermaplane at home. “The devices that have been introduced for at-home use are more razor-like than the surgical blades,” says Loretta Ciraldo, MD, dermatologist and founder of Dr. Loretta Skincare. This means you’ll be getting more surface-level skin-cell removal, making it a lot safer to do on your own.
Avoid using the professional scalpels, which Dr. Mann warns can be dangerous. “A true dermaplane uses a scalpel-type blade, which I do not recommend doing at home as you can easily cut yourself,” she says. “There are at-home dermaplaning devices like the Dermaflash or Tinkle razors, which are safer for home use.”
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Last, remember that your dermaplaning experience should never be painful. If you feel any discomfort, ease up on the pressure you’re applying to your skin or avoid the sensitive area entirely.
How often should you dermaplane?
Since at-home dermaplaning results are more superficial, you can do it more often, as you see hair growth return. Both Dr. Gohara and Dr. Ciraldo suggest once weekly at home, compared with once a month in a dermatology office.
Will dermaplaning make peach fuzz grow back thicker?
Now for some dermaplaning myth busting. Since the procedure not only removes dead skin cells but also your facial hair, a common worry is that it can cause stubble. Good news: Dr. Ciraldo says any expert will tell you this isn’t the case; facial hair removal has been clinically proven to have no effect on regrowth. Instead, you’ll just be left with an extra-smooth base for makeup.
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What are the potential side effects of dermaplaning?
Even with the right precautions, there are a few common side effects to dermaplaning, especially for first-timers. The good news: Temporary irritation doesn’t mean that your skin isn’t also reaping the exfoliating benefits. Cuts, scrapes, and visible marks are a sure sign that you’re being too aggressive, but a bit of redness or some subtle stinging when applying skin care the day after a treatment is common.
“Dermaplaning can also trigger breakouts in those who are acne-prone, or when the skin is not properly prepped prior to treatment,” says Connie Yang, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in NYC. If dermaplaning worsens your acne, make sure to let it heal completely before trying again, and consult your dermatologist for the safest approach
For extra-sensitive or acne-prone skin—or if a traditional blade seems to be doing more harm than good—Kristen May Lee, lead aesthetician at Onda Beauty in NYC, recommends a high-quality electric device for home use. “They offer a significantly gentler, more controlled experience while preserving the integrity of the skin,” she explains.
What tools should you use for dermaplaning?
Before you begin, pick your fighter. Glamour editors love the Dermaflash Luxe. The popular tool features gentle vibrations that make exfoliating your face as easy as pie, even for first-time users.
Dr. Gohara’s recommendation is the Versed Skincare Instant Gratification, a nonelectric option that features a reusable, slip-free handle. When you’re done with the blade (each lasts for three or four uses), simply swap it out for a new one. Dr. Ciraldo likes the Stacked Skincare Dermaplaning Tool, an esthetician-designed exfoliator with hundreds of glowing reviews on Sephora to back it up.
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How to dermaplane at home, step by step
Whichever tool you choose, watch some how-to videos before you begin the DIY treatment for the first time; this will give you the best idea of how the process works on your own face. “Done improperly, you can leave marks, scars, cuts, scrapes, or open areas, or you might inflame the skin or worsen acne,” says Dr. Gohara. If you have any active skin conditions such as rosacea, eczema, or acne breakouts, hold off on dermaplaning until your skin has settled down.
Our derm experts put together a starting guide for you, so make sure to follow their step-by-step tips for safe, smooth results.
Remember that an at-home dermaplane tool is a facial razor, and though it looks different from the one you use on your legs, you still want to take the same precautions as when using any other razor.
Start on clean, dry skin. No, you shouldn’t start with damp or wet skin. If your dermaplaning tool is electric, turn it on to activate vibrations.
Working in sections, hold the skin taut with one hand and use your dermaplaning device with the other. Move the blade over your skin in short, light strokes. You’ll get best results if you hold the blade at a 45-degree angle.
Try to keep the strokes in a downward motion to avoid irritation. You’ll see dead skin cells and hair start to accumulate as you go. Make sure not to go over any areas that are inflamed or irritated, which can cause bleeding.
Rinse your face with a gentle cleanser and proceed with the rest of your skin care routine.
How do I protect my skin after dermaplaning?
The upsides of dermaplaning—smoother makeup application, softer skin, and more even texture—also mean you need to take extra care of your face. “Dermaplaning lessens the skin barrier,” says Dr. Ciraldo. “This means your products will penetrate more effectively, but it also means skin can become drier since there is less barrier to prevent water loss.” To stay hydrated post-dermaplaning, make sure to follow up with such skin care products as a hydrating serum and a facial oil.
You’ll also want to avoid anything that could potentially cause irritation, so skip the AHAs and retinol/retinoids on freshly dermaplaned skin. Besides, the exfoliation from the dermaplaning counts toward your antiaging skin care routine. Opt for a gentle cleanser instead (Dr. Gohara tells patients to keep it simple with the Dove Beauty Bar), and always protect your skin with plenty of face SPF. Check those steps off your list, and smooth, glowing skin will officially be yours in one little 10-minute treatment.
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