What do Elizabeth Taylor, Margot Robbie, Catherine of Aragon, and Kate Middleton all have in common? Their adoration of heart-shaped pendants in all their unapologetically romantic glory. More than any other symbol of love, the heart is instantly recognizable—and arguably the most iconic motif in jewelry history.
Kate last week became the latest collector to wear her heart on her chain when she debuted a new gold pendant for a meeting with the new Archbishop of Canterbury, Dame Sarah Elisabeth Mullally, at Lambeth Palace. The piece, from British designer Daniella Draper, is made from 9-karat recycled gold and featured a delicate inscription, although even the most eagle-eyed royal watchers have not been able to decipher the the Princess of Wales’s personal message.
“The heart endures because it reflects something fundamental about human nature: our desire to love, to be loved, and to hold onto meaningful connections,” says Sophie Howard, founder of jewelry house By Pariah. “It continues to resonate because it speaks the universal language of emotion, remaining a constant in a world of shifting trends.”
Jeweler Kiki McDonough, whose designs are worn by the Princess of Wales, agrees, “Hearts never lose their relevance because they are timeless and they can be interpreted in so many different ways. They appeal to lots of people, across generations and styles.”
Generations of royals have been charmed by the form. This week the British Museum announced the thrilling news that it had raised enough money to acquire a solid gold heart pendant from the Tudor period for its permanent collection. Inscribed with an “H” and a “K,” the piece is thought to be one of the few surviving artifacts commemorating the marriage of King Henry VIII to his first wife, Catherine (or Katherine) of Aragon. The pendant, dated to around 1518, features a Tudor rose entwined with a pomegranate bush, Catherine’s personal emblem, which symbolized fertility and her Spanish heritage. Beneath, a banner bears the inscription “TOVS IORS,” Old French for “always” or “all yours.”
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The treasure had been lost for centuries beneath the soil of a Warwickshire field until it was uncovered by chance by a metal detectorist in 2019. Now, thanks to a massive fundraising campaign, the heart will be enjoyed by generations to come. “The success of the campaign shows the power of history to spark the imagination and why objects like the Tudor Heart should be in a museum,” said Nicholas Cullinan, director of the British Museum. “This beautiful survivor tells us about a piece of English history few of us knew, but in which we can all now share.”
Royal romeos over the last 500 years have followed in Henry’s footsteps and turned to the heart as an ultimate token of romantic love. One particularly striking example is a Cartier-designed diamond heart brooch that was given to the Duchess of Windsor by her husband the Duke (formerly King Edward VIII) on their 20th wedding anniversary in 1957. The piece featured a poignant detail: The heart was topped with a ruby crown, perhaps a nod to his decision to give up his title, home, and family for the woman he loved. Decades later the duke’s great-nephew, Prince Charles (now King Charles III) added to the collection of heart-shaped royal jewels when he presented Princess Diana with a diamond necklace to mark the birth of Prince William in 1982. (Could the current Prince of Wales in turn have been inspired to buy Kate Middleton her latest jewel?)
And there is surely no greater example than one of the most coveted items in the British crown jewels: the heart-shaped Cullinan V brooch, set with an 18.8-carat diamond cut from the historic 3,106-carat Cullinan stone. In 1911 it was designed by Garrard for Queen Mary; she bequeathed it to her granddaughter, Elizabeth II, who wore it on regular rotation. Today it is a favorite of Queen Camilla, who triumphantly positioned it on her coronation crown—and more recently sported it at Royal Ascot.
Other royal hearts boast a more mysterious backstory. Queen Camilla is the owner of one particular brooch that is believed to be an antique from the turn of the 20th century but about which little else is known. The piece, which appears to be crafted from diamonds and pearls on a black enamel backing, is strikingly similar to styles owned by both Queen Margrethe II of Denmark and the Duchess of Gloucester.
Yet it is not just the royals who have fallen in love with the power of the heart. Hollywood golden girl Margot Robbie graced the Wuthering Heights red carpet adorned in a stunning Schiaparelli gown—and a breath-taking diamond necklace that once belonged to Elizabeth Taylor. The heart-shaped pendant, reportedly worth $8 million, was gifted to the legendary actress by her fifth husband, Richard Burton, for her 40th birthday in 1972.
The jewel, inscribed with the phrase “love is everlasting” in Parsee, originally belonged to Nur Jahan, who received it as a gift from her husband, the Mughal Emperor, Shah Jahangir in 1627. The diamond was passed down to the emperor’s son, Shah Jahan, known as the King of the World, who presented it to his wife, Mumtaz Mahal; after her death, four years later, the emperor commissioned the Taj Mahal mausoleum in her honor.
Centuries later Burton famously said, “I would have liked to buy [Elizabeth] the Taj Mahal, but it would have cost to much to transport.” The Cartier jewel came to symbolize the passion, drama, and glamour of the couple’s legendary romance.
Later the heart became a mainstay of ’90s and early ’00s It girls like Cameron Diaz, Sarah Jessica Parker, and Winona Ryder. Actress Reese Witherspoon’s iconic Legally Blonde character Elle Woods adorned herself with Tiffany & Co.’s recognizable take on the motif.
“Jewelry is almost talismanic, and it’s one of those extremely personal things which embody a lot of emotions,” says Suhani Parekh, founder of Misho Designs. “We wear it close to the body, and there’s something permanent about metal in general, and that ties really beautifully to the idea of love. It’s strength, permanence, wanting to have it close to you.”
So, as Valentine’s Day approaches, lovers in search of the perfect gift could do much worse than keep things simple and return to the enduring appeal of a heart.
This article first appeared on Tatler.
