Despite dermatologists describing retinol as a skin-care star, it can come with an unpleasant side effect: retinol burn. Also known as retinol irritation, it's essentially what happens when your face can't tolerate the powerful ingredient and subsequently devolves into a flaky, peeling, red mess. Derms and editors alike often describe it as the most powerful exfoliant out there, so when you hit the sweet spot, it makes for glowing, luminous skin—Heather Rogers, M.D., calls it a wonder cream. But, if you accidentally overdo it or use it incorrectly, the reaction can be sudden and unpleasant, something that discourages many from even trying retinol.
"Some patients jump into using retinols with too much excitement," says Union Square Laser Dermatology's Y. Claire Chang, M.D. "It's important to ease your way in to avoid excessive irritation. I always recommend a spot test before applying to your whole face. Incorrect application and misuse can also lead to excess irritation."
There is, however, an easy trick to foolproof retinol application. It's called buffering, and it involves combining retinol with moisturizer to dilute it so your skin can adjust. Below, experts break down the process.
Why does retinol burn my skin?
"Of all the topical options you have for antiaging, retinols have been most often proven effective," says dermatologist Hadley King, M.D. Retinol works by increasing cell turnover so that brown spots go away faster, blackheads and blocked pores clear out, sun damage is repaired, and your skin builds collagen (which keeps wrinkles and fine lines at bay). The tricky part: The more it gets on your skin, the more it's going to kick cells into overdrive. Your face does what it's told, so if too much of the ingredient sinks in, not-ready skin will surface—and just like that, you're left with red, peeling irritation.
Retinol burn may also occur depending on the formulation you're using and how often you're applying it. "Over-the-counter retinols tend to cause less irritation than prescription retinoids," says Chang. "It can take weeks for your skin to get used to them, so it's important to ease your way in. Use as tolerated." She often advises patients to incorporate the ingredient only every few nights initially, then increasing frequency slowly. Consider your skin type too; retinol is a powerful ingredient, so if you tend to be sensitive (or have skin conditions like eczema and rosacea), avoid flare-up areas and go slowly.
How to prevent skin irritation from retinol
Preventing irritation is where buffering comes in—answering the common question of whether you should apply your retinol before or after moisturizer. Answer: Try applying it at the same time instead. While it's more potent when applied beforehand, some complexions can benefit from an additional layer of moisturizer.
"Buffering dilutes the retinol and makes it more tolerable overall," explains dermatologist and cofounder of LM Medical NYC's Morgan Rabach, M.D. "This is recommended for people who get dry after using retinols."
If you want to reap the benefits of the ingredient without the gamble that you're using it wrong, moisturizer is key. Rogers agrees, pointing out that the process both hydrates your skin and acts as a buffer for a gentler experience.
While it does mean you won't get the full thrust of retinol's abilities, for people with dry or sensitive skin, that can be a good thing. The thinner or more reactive your skin, the more retinol will be absorbed, so adding a plain, basic moisturizer like CeraVe Moisturizing Cream keeps your skin happy. If you want to simplify even more, King says you can moisturize first, then top with your retinol. Still, buffering—mixing the two together—is a great way to be extra sure you're not overdoing it, and Rogers says she recommends it for people who've had a bad retinol experience but want to give it another shot.
Once you're back in the saddle and your skin seems to have adjusted, Rogers suggests reversing your routine—using retinol followed by a moisturizer—to nix irritation without dulling the benefits. After you've been exposed to vitamin A (the basis of retinol) for a few weeks, the number of receptors in your skin decreases, so the amount of retinol you take in also dips.
Rabach's additional tip is to combine buffering with varying potencies of retinol. "Most over-the-counter retinols are weak, with Differin being the weakest, going all the way up to Tazarotene, which is the strongest," she says. "Start with the weakest and build up over time to stronger ones as tolerated." She also cautions against using any other exfoliants while you're adjusting, including both physical and chemical scrubs.
How to treat retinol burn
If you do end up with a prebuffering case of retinol burn, treat it before diving into a new routine. Depending on the severity, consider booking an appointment. "You should go to a dermatologist because there can be hyperpigmentation associated with it," advises Rabach. "Usually, we treat with a steroid, an emulsifier like Aquaphor, and sun protection. Occasionally, a bleaching cream like hydroquinone may be needed."
You should also stop use immediately until your skin has completely healed. "Use gentle cleansers and moisturizers in the meantime and avoid other irritating products like AHAs, BHAs, and benzoyl peroxide," says Chang. Her recommended routine is waiting it out and streamlining your routine to ingredients that won't cause another flare-up. If you have a more severe reaction that's not serious enough to see a derm, try using an OTC hydrocortisone cream to alleviate the redness.
When you're ready to go back to buffering, Chang has one final tip. "I recommend looking for retinol formulations that are combined with soothing or hydrating ingredients to minimize irritation like antioxidants, ceramides, and hyaluronic acid," she says. That's an even easier way to wake up with glowing, flake-free skin.
